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Chavez Ravine
Ry Cooder
Chavez Ravine
Nonesuch/Perro Verde
79877-2

I liked riding through Los Angeles when I was a kid. Going west was toward the future; east was definitely in the past. You could take a bus eastbound from where we lived, in Santa Monica, for about fifteen miles, transfer to the street car, and get off in Downtown L.A. - a world back fifty years in time, maybe more. Then you might take the little trolley up Bunker Hill to an even older and dilapidated miniature world of weird Victorian mansions, ancient trees, the old people who didn't always speak English. It was my favorite thing to do. But I never went to Chavez Ravine. I heard about it in the early '50's: the evictions, the power struggle in city hall a scant mile away, the Pachuco Scare, the Red Scare, and the greasy handoff of the ravine to the Dodgers ball club. Occasionally there would be photographs in the paper of some poor Mexican family from the ravine watching some bulldozer tear up their little house while being harassed by the LAPD or lectured to by some city politician. I didn't understand any of this until later, long after the deal had gone down. In those days, they called such things "progress."

I never liked the grid of Santa Monica streets, the sidewalks and little lawns, or the tract houses we lived in that looked like they had all sprouted up in a day. It was too flat, it lacked history and mystery, and that bothered me. Smog appeared in Santa Monica in 1955, which was bad, and Johnny Cash appeared on Radio KXLA, which was good. I had a 78 record album by Roy Rogers, called Lore of the West. Roy and his buddies sang western songs and told western stories, all much more interesting than my life was at the time. The story had something to do with poor sheep ranchers struggling against a wicked outlaw gang that was backed up by a secret cartel of corrupt politicians, railroad interests, and greedy land speculators. The sheep ranchers lost, but the winners were contaminated and ugly. "A hard-boiled egg's always yellow inside," Roy said.

It was 1950 Los Angeles. The power-seeking right-wing politcos and "bigness"-obsessed planners and developers were getting busy deciding the future of everything. They were also learning to use the techniques of red-baiting and character assassination (as advanced by Joseph McCarthey, J. Edgar Hoover, and Richard Nixon), in their effort to topple the progressive city administration and the public housing program. This they did, and Los Angeles was paved over, malled up, high-rised and urban-renewed, as fortunes were made, power was concentrated, and everything got faster and bigger.

But there is a lot I miss now. The texture of certain older neighborhoods, like Bunker Hill, a rural feel in urban places, like Chavez Ravine and the timbre of life there, and just peace and quiet. You can see why a lonesome Space Vato, searching for El Monte Legion Stadium, would ask directions in Palo Verde instead of Santa Monica. Chavez Ravine, where the sidewalk ends. Nobody from Santa Monica ever went up there.
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1. Poor Man's Shangri-La (5:28)
(Ry Cooder/William Garcia/Gene Aguilera)
Hi-Lo Shag Music (BMI)/Wagamita Music (BMI)/Carmlina Music (BMI)

It's night in Los Angeles. A traveling Space Vato is trying to get oriented, honing in on a local radio signal. "Lonely Lonely Nights," by Lil' Julian Herrera, sounds just right; he's been out there for so long now. The radio DJ chants, "El Monte Saturday Night," over and over. Why El Monte? Looking down, he sees a good-size patch of ground surrounded by city lights in every direction. It looks easy, beckoning. He sets his little spacecraft down, and steps out to have a look around. What does he see?

Ry Cooder - Vocal, guitar, organ, tres
Juliette Commagere - Vocal
Jim Keltner - Drums
Mike Elizondo - Bass
Joachim Cooder - Timbales
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2. Onda Callejera (3:50)
(William Garcia/David Hidalgo)
Wagamita Music (BMI)/Da Vince Music (BMI)

Saturday night, 1943. Someone in the naval armory up on Chavez Road called the yellow-cab dispatcher downtown and requisitioned 100 taxi cabs. At three sailors per cab, that's roughly 300 sailors who were taken by cab down to Broadway, a mile away. They hit the boulevard, looking for Pachucos. When they found them, they beat them up and tore their clothes with razor sticks. What was the code? Code Zoot? Who worked up the profile: who gave the orders? The LAPD looked the other way. Who told the beat officers to cool it? Who told the MPs to get a sandwich? Next morning the Los Angeles Times screamed Riot, Criminal Element, Slum Clearance, Race War, Nazi Influence, Public Outrage. The fate of Chavez Ravine, a Mexican-American place, was sealed. Who paid for the cabs?

Little Willie G - Vocal
Juliette and Carla Commagere - Vocal chorus
Ry Cooder - Guitar, laud
Joachim Cooder - Percussion
Mike Elizondo - Bass
Joe Rotondi - Piano
Gil Bernal - Tenor saxophone
Mike Bolger - Trumpet
Ledward Kaapana - Guitar
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3. Don't Call Me Red (4:58)
(Ry Cooder)
Hi-Lo Shag Music (BMI)

Frank Wilkinson reckons that if he had stayed in public housing, working for the city of Los Angeles, his life would have been less interesting than it turned out to be, but he enjoys knowing that he outlived the people who wrecked the public housing program and sent him to prison for refusing to testify before the HUAC.

Now in his 90s, Frank Wilkinson is more than a footnote to the McCarthy Era, which he prefers to call the "J. Edgar Hoover Era." But in 1950, he was a young idealist given the task of doing something for poor people in Los Angeles who were, in the New Deal sense, ill-housed. Architect Richard Neutra wasn't busy at the time, and he agreed to come work for Frank and the federal government on a plan to build utopian, low-rent housing in Chavez Ravine. Today, you can drive to the result. Strike one.

Ry Cooder - Vocal, guitar
Juliette and Carla Commagere - Vocal chorus
John Hassell - Trumpet
Jim Keltner - Drums
Joachim Cooder - Timbales
Mike Elizondo - Bass
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4. Corrido de Boxeo (3:21)
(Lalo Guerrero)
Barrio Libre Music (BMI)

Talking over old times in Los Angeles with Lalo Guerrero was like watching old black and white movies: Salon Mexico meets Criss Cross. Lalo knew the boxers Carlos and Favela Chavez, who lived in the neighborhoods of Palo Verde and La Loma. Carlos did well, and was California featherweight champion for a time in the late ‘40s. The Olympic Auditorium, downtown, was the top-of-the-line venue for East L.A. fighters in those days. But your life can change at the end of one punch. Chavez Ravine – The Set Up.

Lalo Guerrero – Vocal
Ry Cooder – Bajo sexto, guitar
Joachim Cooder – Drums
Mike Elizondo – Bass
Joe Rotondi – Piano
Flaco Jimenez – Accordion
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5. Muy Fifi (4:03)
(William Garcia/Joachim Cooder/Juliette Commagere)
Wagamita Music (BMI)/Zegema Beech Music (BMI)/Half Mexican Music (BMI)

A mother-daughter conversation about style and propriety. Little Willie G. wrote they lyrics from his memory of such talk in the homes of his relatives. I like the idea that Smiley Chulote gets respect outside home turf, that he gets Fifi back home safe. No guns, no slaughter, no noche de terror. The word around Santa Monica High School was that all the Mexican Girls had rusty hat-pins and razor blades stashed up in their big hairdos. I never asked, so I don’t know if they did or not. 

Ersi Arvizu – Vocal
Little Willie G – Vocal, Chorus
Ry Cooder – Guitar
Joachim Cooder – Drums, sampling
Mike Elizondo – Bass
Chucho Valdes – Piano
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6. Los Chucos Suaves (3:08)
(Lalo Guerrero)
Barrio Libre Music (BMI)

Originally recorded by Lalo in Los Angeles, in 1949, for the Imperial label. You might have seen Fifi and Smiley out on the dance floor at La Bamba, El Hoyo, or El Capital, downtown clubs where “Lalo y Sus Cinco Lobos” played regularly, where every night was Thursday night. What was it like? Check out Yvonne de Carlo in Criss Cross, also 1949. Does your neighborhood band groove like this? Are you having this good a time? Are these the Pachucos that threatened all of Los Angeles, the ones the Nazis recruited? Did Smiley and Fifi ever make it back to La Loma? 

Lalo Guerrero – Vocal
Ry Cooder – Guitar
Jim Keltner – Drums
Mike Elizondo – Bass
Joe Rotondi – Piano
Gil Bernal – Tenor Sax
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7. Chinito Chinito (4:52)
(Felguerez/Diaz)

Imagine waking up in the morning thinking, “Today, I will write a song about a pidgin-Spanish-speaking Chinese laundryman who rattles his change-box as he walks along, while being heckled by two loudmouthed Chinanas…” Mexicans and Chinese had been living side-by-side downtown since the late 1800s. little Willie G.’s aunts used to say, “Here comes Chinito, toca la malaca.” Playing his change-box. Just a comment, I should judge – no race hatred, no gang war, no police crackdown. Chief Parker let it pass, this time. The great Don Tosti recorded the song in 1949. Mike Stoller, of Leiber and Stoller, had the record as a high school student at Belmont, in Boyle Heights on the East Side, but he had lost tack of it, and Tosti hadn’t seen a copy for years. Chris Strachwitz didn’t think he had one, but Chuy Varela did. I guess it’s the only one left. 

Juliette Commagere – Vocal
Carla Commagere – Vocal
Ry Cooder – Guitar
Joachim Cooder – Drums
Jared Smith- Bass
Mike Bolger – Organ, Trumpet, Valve Trombone
Joe Rotondi – Piano
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8. 3 Cool Cats (2:57)
(Jerry Leiber & Mike Stoller)
Leiber and Stoller Music (ASCAP)

Evening in the Ravine. There’s a 1939 Chevy parked on the corner of Effie Street and Boyleston. You must have a ’39, because every little feature on this car that year was teardrop-shaped, coming to a point, which is cool. So, these three guys are sitting in the car there, and after a while three sharp-looking Chucas walk by. Great idea, great song. The neighbor’s dog gets inquisitive, and sirens start wailing, but that’s just the night sound of the city down below. The police academy is still in use, up on Academy Road, but it’s quiet and deserted at night. L.A. Jazz pianist Hampton Hawes actually recorded an all-night session in the academy gym in 1955, 3 cool cats did 3 big flips for Hamp. 

Little Willie G – Vocal
Rudy Salas, Michael Guerra, Juliette Commagere, Carla Commagere – Vocal Chorus
Ry Cooder – Guitar
Jim Keltner – Drums
Joachim Cooder – Timbales
Jared Smith – Bass
Joe Rotondi – Piano
Gil Bernal – Tenor Sax
Mike Bolger – Organ
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9. El U.F.O. Cayo (8:22)
(Juliette Commagere/Ry Cooder/Joachim Cooder/Jared Smith)

Half Mexican Music (BMI)/Hi-Lo Shag Music (BMI)/Zegema Beach Music (BMI)/Privy Seal Music (BMI)


The Space Vato returns on a mission of prophecy. Scrolling through his catalog of intercosmic languages, he speaks to the folks in Calo, an L.A. slang variant. “Your time is up; the Gabachos will build a big stadium here. Come with me, you’ll be better off.” They reply, “You’re mistaken, sir, we have rights, it can’t happen here,” the cherished myth that Good Americans always use to comfort themselves. They don’t want to go, why would they, life is good, que sera, sera.

Don Tosti recorded the voice of the traveler before passing, in 2003 – his last session. Adios, baby. 

Juliette Commagere – Vocal
Don Tosti – Vocal
Ry Cooder – Tres
Mike Elizondo – Bass
Joachim Cooder – Sampling
Jared Smith – Keyboard
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10. It’s Just Work For Me (5:54)
(Ry Cooder)
Hi-Lo Shag Music (BMI)

It cost about 7 million dollars of public funds to regrade Chavez Ravine according to Richard Neutra’s housing site plan. But there wasn’t going to be any housing, public or otherwise, because there was just too much heat over the whole thing, so the city council worked out a sweet deal with Walter O’Malley and brought the Dodgers out there. Because baseball was clean, you couldn’t argue with it, and it was good for the town. O’Malley loved money and a good deal, maybe even as much as he loved the game itself, so you can’t blame him. Nor can you blame the equipment operator who drove the bulldozer that smashed up the little houses. I read that some people tried to stop the machines by throwing rocks and bottles at them. Like spitting at the Sun. 

Ry Cooder – Vocal, guitar
Joachim Cooder – Drums
Mike Elizondo – Bass
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11. In My Town (5:40)
(Ry Cooder)
Hi-Lo Shag Music (BMI)

Who’s that weird guy across the hall? You ever see him or hear anything; what does he do all the time; does he have a girlfriend? Any pets? Answer: no. This is an invisible man, an isolated man, but a dreamer; a secret deacon in the crypto-fascist Church of the Next Big thing. When you finally do see him, he will own and control people and land. Your land, your place, your town. Only by then, it will be his town.

Ry Cooder – Vocal, Guitar
Sunny D. Levine – Drum programming
Jacky Terrasson – Piano
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12. Ejercito Militar (3:16)
(Rita Arvizu)
Arvizu Music (BMI)

The Arvizu family lived on Fisher Street, in East Los Angeles. Lalo Guerrero was an uncle on the father’s side. All the brothers and sisters were taught the traditional Mexican vocal music repertoire from early childhood. But their mother, Rita, also wrote songs. Music came to her late at night, while the family was asleep. She was awakened by song lyrics and got up to write them down in a notebook hidden under the bed. Few have survived, because their father, Arturo, disliked the idea that his wife’s mind kept wandering off somewhere in the dark. “Music is for the day; the night is for sleeping,” he said. 

Ersi Arvizu – Vocal
Rosella Arvizu – Vocal
Ry Cooder – Bajo sexto, guitar
Joachim Cooder – Drums
Mike Elizondo – Bass
Flaco Jimenez – Accordion
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13. Barrio Viejo (4:42)
(Lalo Guerrero)
Barrio Libre Music (BMI)

Lalo’s old neighborhood in Tucson, Arizona, where he was born and raised, is called Barrio Viejo. You used to see photographs in the paper of city big-shots pointing to a large-scale street map with pins stuck in it: a battle plan, the next big move. They don’t take pictures like that anymore because it’s bad public relations, but in the days of Chavez Ravine there wasn’t any public relations, just public displays of raw power. Here’s builder Fritz Burns, looking like the cat that ate the canary, sleek and confident. There’s Cardinal McIntire, always in the loop. Chief Parker appears regularly, stern-faced, brooking no disrespect. Outside, on the street, however, emotion and memory remain long after the maps are rolled up and put away and the black-and-white photographs are boxed up and taken down to the basement. Personally, I think Lalo’s homage to his old barrio will probably outlive all the venues of power, but, sadly, not Lalo himself. He passed into the legend of history on March 17, 2005. Viva El Chicano Inolvidable. 

Lalo Guerrero – Vocal, guitar
Flaco Jimenez – Accordion
Joachim Cooder – Drums
Mike Elizondo – Bass
Ledward Kaapana – Guitar
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14. 3rd Base, Dodger Stadium (5:45)
(Ry Cooder/William Garcia/Joe Kevany)
Hi-Lo Shag Music (BMI)/Wagamita Music (BMI)/Matoots Music (BMI)

Ravine old-timers locate themselves by a memory plum line, straight down through the playing field of Dodgers Stadium, to the town underneath all that cement. “I’m from 3rd base” “we’re from home plate,” etc. I asked Bla Pahinui to come and sing with us. Homey of homies. Bla lives in Honolulu, a place where memory is erased every day. It’s like losing language or bird species. The overhead construction crane is the state bird of Hawaii, no doubt about that. Now they’re talking about building a new stadium for the Dodgers farther downtown and putting up luxury condos in the Ravine – what will they be called? “Ranchos de Chavez Estancias – Gated, patrolled, exclusive, restricted: The bygone ambience of a kinder, gentler Los Angeles”? Who will want to live there? Not me, friends and neighbors. The U.F.O. is never coming back. 

Bla Pahinui – Vocal, guitar, ukulele
Ry Cooder – Guitar
Joachim Cooder – Drums
Mike Elizondo – Bass
Joe Rotondi – Piano
Gil Bernal – Tenor sax
Mike Bolger – Trumpet, Valve trombone
Ledward Kaapana – Guitar
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15. Soy Luz y Sombra (3:15)
(Music by William Garcia/Joachim Cooder/Ry Cooder)
Wagamita Music (BMI)/Zegema Music (BMI)/Hi-Lo Shag Music (BMI)

The Cloud Forest Poem If you go hiking in the Cloud Forest in Costa Rica, you might come across this poem inscribed on a plank by the footpath. Willie G. adapted the text, adding a chorus. I like the idea that the earth has the last word, telling her side of things as in a love song, accompanied by a celestial ice-cream truck that cruises by and moves off through the streets of Palo Verde in the cool of the evening. 

Ersi Arvizu – Vocal
Little Willie G – Vocal
Juliette Commagere – Vocal
Ry Cooder – Guitar
Joachim Cooder – Drums, sampling
Jared Smith – Bass
David Hidalgo – Guitar
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Thanks

The photographs of Don Normark set the mood. From Dana Cuff came the story map and the guidance to read it right. Then I just started showing up on doorsteps, something I never did before. Everyone I met was happy to help, more than kind, and I hope I may say that we had some real good times together. My deepest thanks to one and all, Beto Arcos, Gene Aguilera, Desi Barraza, Carolyn Kozo Cole and Glen Creason of the Los Angeles Public Library Map and Photograph Collections, Mike Davis, Phillip Ethington, Genie Guerard of the Charles E. Young Research Library, Dan Guerrero, Mark Guerrero, Carolyn Kelly, Michael C. McMillen, Ruben Martinez, Michael Jacob Rochlin, Phillip Rodriguez, Tracey Shiffman, Chris Strachwitz, Chuy Varela, Donna and Frank Wilkinson. Paul Glass and Doris Hostetler at Provident Financial, Macklam/Feldman Management, Candice Hanson, Digital Fusion, Truetone Music.

At Nonesuch Records, Robert Hurwitz and David Bither

My special thanks to my family, Susan and Joachim, for their interest, support, and insight into this project and other topics not yet designated.

Finally, as always, saludos a todos los musicos. Who could ask for anything more? Not I, friends and neighbors.
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Produced by Ry Cooder

Recorded by Rail Jon Rogut at Village Records (Los Angeles, CA) and Sound City Studios, Van Nuys, CA

Assisted by Okhi Kim and Pete Martinez

Additional recording by Jerry Boys, Sunny Levine, and Don Smith at Sound City Studios, Orange Stella, and Capitol Studios, Hollywood, CA

Mixed by Don Smith at Drive-By Studio, Los Angeles, CA

Digital Editing by Martin Prader

Mastered by Stephen Marcussen at Marcussen Mastering, Hollywood, CA

Music Contracting by Leslie Morris
Dragnet Radio and The Original Dragnet samples courtesy of Universal Studios Licensing, LLLP

Song translations by Chuy Varela and William Garcia

Management: Macklam/Feldman Management Inc.

Package Design: Tracey Shiffman

Album artwork:  Front Cover and Jewel Cast insert illustrations by Michael C. McMillen; background housing plans by Robert C. Imbrecht; Pogo cartoon by Walt Kelly © 2005 OGPI, used by permission, Chavez Ravine Study, 1948

Nonesuch Records

Production Supervision: Karina Beznicki
Production Coordinator: Eli Cane
Editorial Coordinator: Robert Edridge-Waks

Photography:

Peanuts © Tracey Shiffman Design; Pg. 1, Los Angeles Times photo by Harry Chase; Pg. 2, map of Los Angeles, c. 1946, courtesy Los Angeles Public Library Map and Photo Archive, Pg. 6, Hollywood Citizen-News Archive, courtesy of Los Angeles Public Library, Pgs. 3, 8, 18, 19, 25, 34, 35 by Don Normark, Pgs. 20-21, 48 by Susan Titelman; Pg. 14, collection of Vince Delgado, Pgs. 16, 38, 39, courtesy of the Arvizu family; Pg. 30 by James Kollar, collection of Don Tosti; Pg. 51 by Nelson R. Farmer, collection of Little Willie G.



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